麻、毛線 Linen, wool /159 x 92 cm
介紹
賽德克族傳統織布技法多種，每種技法皆可以織作族服，然而織布技術已斷層許久，現今傳承下來的男生、女生族服款式花樣鮮少，得要從網路搜尋才看到織紋豐富華麗的族服收藏在世界各地的博物館。本件族服為重製台大人類學博物館的館藏品—「男士有袖長衣」，織布技法是pnqapah與ratu技法織作的族服。開頭的紋路排列用pnqapah技法，緯線用紅色點綴點黑色線條織個一小段，接著用ratu技法挑織出山形紋路，循環的織到肩膀後面，最後再變化紋路展現與正面紋路的不同，而其中最特別的是ratu技法用兩種顏色的緯線，挑出一個紋路複雜卻井然有序的大菱形，整體看來本件族服焦點在背面的圖紋，顯示這件族服的華麗是重大祭典所穿著的禮服。
Introduction
There are many traditional weaving techniques in Seediq. Each way could be used to make ethnic uniforms. However, this technique has been used for long. Very few styles ethnic uniforms are passed down today. We can only search for those beautiful ethnic uniforms in museums on the Internet. This ethnic uniform is a remake of a men’s long-sleeved gown preserved in the Museum of Anthropology in National Taiwan University. The weaving technique is pnqapah and ratu. Using pnqapah at the beginning of the weaving pattern. The weft is woven in red and black for small section, then using ratu to pick up a mountain-like pattern which is woven cyclically to the back of the shoulder, and finally the pattern is changed to show the difference from the front pattern. What is special is the bi-colored weft of ratu, picking out a large rhombus with complex yet orderly textures. This ethnic uniform is highlighted on the back, which means that its made for major festivals.
